Service Tips

From the Atwood Service Team - For Our Valued Customers

Engine will not start, starting motor not cranking or cranking very slow:  Check - 1. Is the battery voltage 12 volts or higher. 2. Are battery lugs tight and clean. 3. Is the control lever in neutral.

Engine cranks fine but will not start:  Check - 1. Is the lanyard stop clip in place. 2. Is fuel connected on the engine. 3. Is there fuel in the tank. 

Engine suddenly stops running:  Check the fuel tank vent to make sure it aspirates properly.

Extending the life of your battery:  To eliminate an unexpected drain on your battery, disconnect one of the cables from the top of your battery before you leave the dock.  Batteries will self discharge faster in high temperatures.  During hot, summer months, monitor the voltage more frequently (approximately every 2-4 weeks).  Suggestion - every 2 weeks or at least once a month take your battery home and place it on trickle charge.  Next, avoid locations where freezing temperatures are expected.  Batteries can freeze.  If unavoidable and they are sitting outside during cold winter months, it is critical that they are kept fully charged.  Suggestion - take the battery home for the winter and place it on trickle charge once every month.  The life of a battery is difficult to predict but taking the time to keep it charged will save you down time and money. 

Two stroke break in schedule - 10 hours in length. 
For the first 10 minutes:  Run engine at lowest possible speed, a fast idle in gear is best. 
For the next 50 minutes:  Do not exceed half throttle or 3000 rpm.  Vary engine speed occasionally. 
For the 2nd hour:  Accelerate onto plane then reduce to 3/4 throttle and vary engine speed occasionally. 
For the 3rd through 10th hour:  Avoid operating at full throttle for more than 5 minutes at a time.  Let the engine cool between full throttle runs.  Vary engine speed occasionally. 
After the first 10 hours:  Operate engine normally. 

Four stroke break in schedule - 10 hours in length. 
For the 1st hour:  Run @ 2,000 rpm or no more than half throttle. 
For the 2nd hour:  Increase speed to put boat on plane but avoid full throttle, then back off throttle while keeping boat at a planing speed. 
For the next 8 hours of operation:  Avoid continuous full throttle for more than 5 minutes at a time. 
After the first 10 hours:  Operate engine normally.

Basics for winterizing your outboard engine:
1. Flush the engine - Use clean water and let all the water drain from the engine. Next wash the engine with soap and water and rinse thoroughly.
2. Disconnect the fuel hose - Run the engine until it stops and then spray fogging oil in the cylinders to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons.
3. Change gearcase lube - Apply water-resistant grease to the propeller shaft and threads and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine. 

***Fall Tune-up Special*** At this time each year we offer a popular discount for outboard engine tune-ups.  Tune-ups for engines of 2 to 60 horsepower are normally $249.00 and now available for $189.00 not including shop supplies and tax. This critical service should be completed every three or four years "if water pump housing parts are needed, we will notify you of potential additional fees." This offer is only available for repair orders placed prior to December 1st 2008.  Actual work will be completed after the first of the new year.  Call 330-364-4703 and place your order.

Ethanol "E-10" Fuel:
As of June 2008, Atwood Lake Boats began utilizing and distributing this new fuel.  Although Ethanol blended gasoline benefits the enviroment it may "without precautions" cause problems for boat engines.  This new fuel without proper stabilization has an estimated shelf life (before degradation begins) of 30 days.  Heat, humidity and longer periods of non-use are usually not a problem in our vehicles but could pose a problem for those who infrequently use their boats. 
A. Ethanol is a strong cleaner "solvent."
B. Ethanol has a strong attraction to water.
C. Ethanol fuel does have a usable life span that is less than normal when considering off season boat storage.
E10's solvent properties will break down varnish deposits and surface corrosion from any service it contacts in existing fuel systems.  It may also dissolve plastic resins used to make some fiberglass fuel tanks.  The varnish, corrosion and resins can quickly exceed the filtering capacity of fuel system filters untimately reducing engine performance and potentially causing engine damage.
Vehicles "cars & trucks" have a closed fuel system but boats have open "vented" systems which increases the possibility of water contamination from humidity and other sources.  Ethanol's attraction to water can lead to a reduction of the gasoline's octane level "phase separation" which can not be reversed.  Once the fuel is bad, it can not be used and should be discarded.  Adding stabilizer, dry gas or fuel additives will not improve E10 fuel that is already old or bad. 
If you can not burn a full tank of fuel within 30 plus days, you must add fuel stablizer each time you purchase fresh fuel.  This will retard the aging of the E10 fuel.
Last, although not always practical, it is recommended that when it comes to fuel storage, best case scenario - the tank should be completely empty or have the tank 7/8 full, stabilized and placed in a cool, dry location.